If you want a ferret and you don't know what to do, how many to own, how to feed them and care for them correctly... Well, you've come to the right place! You will find nearly everything you need to know on my website.
Breeding (of any species) is about maintaining standards, improving the species as a whole, improving temperament and keeping the lines free of genetic defects. Backyard breeders do not do any of this. The words "Backyard Breeder" do not mean any Tom, Dick or Harry who breeds any animal in his backyard. A backyard breeder is someone who breeds their animals for the soul purpose of making money. BYB do not research into linage or health of their animals and breed them with no regard for bettering the breed but to make money off their animals. Kits are often inbred and jills bred multiple times in a single season to get more out of her, this will shorten her lifespan, if not kill her. The mothers are often fed the incorrect unhealthy diet before, during and after pregnancy which leads to uncountable health issues for mum and her young. Kits are also fed on a simple wet/dry cat food which is most definitely NOT sufficient for any ferret let alone a mother or a growing kit. BYB do this to keep their costs at a minimum so they can make the most profit from their animals. They are kept in less than suitable cages and conditions and sold WAY too young, too often at 5-6 weeks old which is only a few days after they have opened their eyes (the equivalent of selling a puppy at 2.5 weeks old).
Please read below on warning signs and how to tell the difference between a good responsible breeder and a backyard breeder.
Backyard Breeder traits:
They will meet you at a location on adoption date, not allowing you to come to their home OR if they do allow you at their home they will come out the front and take your money and hand you a kit from a box. You will not be able to meet parents or siblings, you will not be able to see how they are caged/cared for or what they are fed nor will you be able to chose the ferret that you want to actually adopt.
BYB kits are generally incredibly undernourished and emaciated due to incorrect diet, they are sold way too young and they have not been handled at all or have only had very small interaction with humans so will immediately fear human touch and sounds resulting in you receiving bites that can and will break bone.
The kit will not be litter trained and because the BYB sold you the kit so young it has been removed from mum and their siblings and will cry for hours on end begging for it's mum. The worst part of buying from a BYB is that you will never hear from this person again, they don't care what you do with the ferret, or how you care for it, let alone even giving you the right information on how to care for it, as long as they got their money that is all that matters to them.
Responsible/Reputable Breeder traits:
A responsible and reputable breeder will invite you to their home, inside their home and out in their backyard, you will meet all of their pets, see how they are caged, cared for, what food they eat and how healthy they are. You will meet the parents and or siblings of breeding stock and of the potential ferret you adopt. Their kits will be healthy, active, lively and have long thick fur, bright eyes, and a happy attitude. Their kits will not leave mum and siblings before a minimum of 10 weeks of age, they will be nipped trailed, they will be litter trained and they most definitely will be socialised with other ferret and humans.
Once you bring your kits home (they should always be adopted in pairs), they will settle nicely in their new home and won't fret for mum and or litter mates because they have each other. Your kit comes with an extensive adoption pack with an abundance of information, guidance, support and care and of course your kits will ONLY be fed on a full balanced raw diet as well as whole prey. Any kind of dog or cat food, wet or dry, will NOT be apart of their diet. The best part of adopting from a responsible and reputable breeder is that you will have a lifetime mentor, friend and support person. Not only will the breeder stay in contact with you throughout the life of the ferret, they will always be there for help and if you are unable to care for your ferret due to unforseen circumstances then the breeder will take the ferret back.
What should you check for in a good breeder?
A good breeder will;
• Keep their ferrets healthy and clean
• Keep their ferrets vaccinated with suitable documentation to verify this
• Allow you to examine the ferrets, their food and water
• Will keep all appropriate vet records and records of each litter
• Will have feedback from previous clients (See my Guestbook Page)
• Will have an open door policy for inspection by any animal welfare ( eg: RSPCA or AWL)
• Ensuring to introduce new ferrets to their breeding program so there is a wide and healthy gene pool and bloodline
• Will allow you to play with your chosen ferret for a little while before adoption day so you can make sure the kit is ok and see if its personality suits yours
• Must be happy to answer any of your questions in an educated and professional manner (before and most of all, after adoption has occurred)
• Should be providing mothers and kits with a suitable cages and have spare cages for quarantine and or for sick ferrets
• Should provide a birth certificate with a photo of the kit which will state the parents and date of birth for the new owners and for the breeders records
• Should encourage to be contacted if you have any health issues for your ferret
• Should provide an option to bring the ferret back if for whatever reason you cannot care for it any longer
• Should not sell kits before they reach at least 10 weeks of age
• Should be well educated and knowledgeable in regards to ferrets
• Should provide you with an information/adoption pack on caring for ferrets
Other things to look for before you chose your ferret breeder:
• Clean cages
• Clean litter trays
• Clean water and food bowls
• Hold the ferret and see if it has been handled
• Check for fleas or ear mites
• Check to see if fur is soft, silky, thick and clean
• Check to ensure the ferret is alert, playful and is of a healthy weight
• Check if ears are clean
• Checking the overall appearance of ferret. Does the ferret look healthy to you?
• Check for foot mange or footrot, check that the nails are hard and not soft – if they are soft it could mean that the ferret has been walking over a surface that has excessive moisture (normally urine and faeces), which means that the cage was not cleaned regularly enough
• Check that the toe nails are not too long
• Check that the eyes are clean, bright and conjunctivitis free
• Check the ferret’s genitals to make sure they are clean and hygienic
• Check how the ferret walks to make sure it does not have any mobility problems or any calcium deficiencies
Breeding (of any species) is about maintaining standards, improving the species as a whole, improving temperament and keeping the lines free of genetic defects. Backyard breeders do not do any of this. The words "Backyard Breeder" do not mean any Tom, Dick or Harry who breeds any animal in his backyard. A backyard breeder is someone who breeds their animals for the soul purpose of making money. BYB do not research into linage or health of their animals and breed them with no regard for bettering the breed but to make money off their animals. Kits are often inbred and jills bred multiple times in a single season to get more out of her, this will shorten her lifespan, if not kill her. The mothers are often fed the incorrect unhealthy diet before, during and after pregnancy which leads to uncountable health issues for mum and her young. Kits are also fed on a simple wet/dry cat food which is most definitely NOT sufficient for any ferret let alone a mother or a growing kit. BYB do this to keep their costs at a minimum so they can make the most profit from their animals. They are kept in less than suitable cages and conditions and sold WAY too young, too often at 5-6 weeks old which is only a few days after they have opened their eyes (the equivalent of selling a puppy at 2.5 weeks old).
Please read below on warning signs and how to tell the difference between a good responsible breeder and a backyard breeder.
Backyard Breeder traits:
They will meet you at a location on adoption date, not allowing you to come to their home OR if they do allow you at their home they will come out the front and take your money and hand you a kit from a box. You will not be able to meet parents or siblings, you will not be able to see how they are caged/cared for or what they are fed nor will you be able to chose the ferret that you want to actually adopt.
BYB kits are generally incredibly undernourished and emaciated due to incorrect diet, they are sold way too young and they have not been handled at all or have only had very small interaction with humans so will immediately fear human touch and sounds resulting in you receiving bites that can and will break bone.
The kit will not be litter trained and because the BYB sold you the kit so young it has been removed from mum and their siblings and will cry for hours on end begging for it's mum. The worst part of buying from a BYB is that you will never hear from this person again, they don't care what you do with the ferret, or how you care for it, let alone even giving you the right information on how to care for it, as long as they got their money that is all that matters to them.
Responsible/Reputable Breeder traits:
A responsible and reputable breeder will invite you to their home, inside their home and out in their backyard, you will meet all of their pets, see how they are caged, cared for, what food they eat and how healthy they are. You will meet the parents and or siblings of breeding stock and of the potential ferret you adopt. Their kits will be healthy, active, lively and have long thick fur, bright eyes, and a happy attitude. Their kits will not leave mum and siblings before a minimum of 10 weeks of age, they will be nipped trailed, they will be litter trained and they most definitely will be socialised with other ferret and humans.
Once you bring your kits home (they should always be adopted in pairs), they will settle nicely in their new home and won't fret for mum and or litter mates because they have each other. Your kit comes with an extensive adoption pack with an abundance of information, guidance, support and care and of course your kits will ONLY be fed on a full balanced raw diet as well as whole prey. Any kind of dog or cat food, wet or dry, will NOT be apart of their diet. The best part of adopting from a responsible and reputable breeder is that you will have a lifetime mentor, friend and support person. Not only will the breeder stay in contact with you throughout the life of the ferret, they will always be there for help and if you are unable to care for your ferret due to unforseen circumstances then the breeder will take the ferret back.
What should you check for in a good breeder?
A good breeder will;
• Keep their ferrets healthy and clean
• Keep their ferrets vaccinated with suitable documentation to verify this
• Allow you to examine the ferrets, their food and water
• Will keep all appropriate vet records and records of each litter
• Will have feedback from previous clients (See my Guestbook Page)
• Will have an open door policy for inspection by any animal welfare ( eg: RSPCA or AWL)
• Ensuring to introduce new ferrets to their breeding program so there is a wide and healthy gene pool and bloodline
• Will allow you to play with your chosen ferret for a little while before adoption day so you can make sure the kit is ok and see if its personality suits yours
• Must be happy to answer any of your questions in an educated and professional manner (before and most of all, after adoption has occurred)
• Should be providing mothers and kits with a suitable cages and have spare cages for quarantine and or for sick ferrets
• Should provide a birth certificate with a photo of the kit which will state the parents and date of birth for the new owners and for the breeders records
• Should encourage to be contacted if you have any health issues for your ferret
• Should provide an option to bring the ferret back if for whatever reason you cannot care for it any longer
• Should not sell kits before they reach at least 10 weeks of age
• Should be well educated and knowledgeable in regards to ferrets
• Should provide you with an information/adoption pack on caring for ferrets
Other things to look for before you chose your ferret breeder:
• Clean cages
• Clean litter trays
• Clean water and food bowls
• Hold the ferret and see if it has been handled
• Check for fleas or ear mites
• Check to see if fur is soft, silky, thick and clean
• Check to ensure the ferret is alert, playful and is of a healthy weight
• Check if ears are clean
• Checking the overall appearance of ferret. Does the ferret look healthy to you?
• Check for foot mange or footrot, check that the nails are hard and not soft – if they are soft it could mean that the ferret has been walking over a surface that has excessive moisture (normally urine and faeces), which means that the cage was not cleaned regularly enough
• Check that the toe nails are not too long
• Check that the eyes are clean, bright and conjunctivitis free
• Check the ferret’s genitals to make sure they are clean and hygienic
• Check how the ferret walks to make sure it does not have any mobility problems or any calcium deficiencies
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